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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.